Showing posts with label textile. Show all posts
Showing posts with label textile. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

Big News! or What's with the Barbie Dolls?


I applied one last time for the Jerome Fiber Artist Project Grant for emerging artists...and I got it!
The "Barbies"  are samples of how the project might look

Here's the project:

WEARING MY AGE



“Power consists to a large extent in deciding what stories are told”  Carolyn Heilbrun

Women have been telling their stories through needlework for generation upon generation.  Within the traditional forms of dress and decorative stitching there is often a secret, hidden language of the oppressed. In this project, I will make the public, private and secret stories of contemporary women manifest in computer assisted machine embroidered clothing.

We often think of embroidery as the delicate work of girls and women of the leisure class.  We think of samplers, delicately stitched hankies, linens for bed and table. We might also think of traditional designs on traditional ethnic costumes, identifying tribe and region. Embroidery seems to us a beautiful frippery.

 But embroidery has deep narrative and subversive roots. Histories, mythologies and secrets have been told in stitch. The Bayeux Tapestries documented the Battle of Hastings, 1066, from the political point of view of the victors, in over 200 feet of embroidery. Mary, Queen of Scots, and her court, prevented from displaying their education, developed a coded language of stitch to communicate. Hmong story cloth tells both traditional stories in stitch as well as the harrowing stories of escape and emigration to America. Sujani quilts from India traditionally convey a mother’s dream for the long life of her newborn, but also tell the stories of women: birth, death, abuse, and infanticide.  These are all political, the testimony of a largely silent, culturally oppressed group throughout history.

 I use the techniques of embroidery, both hand and machine aided, as drawing and painting tools, laden with history and expectations that can be exploited for startling new expressions.

I have been engaged with free-motion machine embroidery as drawing for several years and now want to expand that engagement through original design in computer aided machine embroidery.  I will develop complex alphabets and images that will facilitate recognition of the political underpinnings of embroidery, clothing and fashion.

As an artist, my overarching goal is to elevate “women’s” traditional crafts, and specifically the craft of embroidery, to fine art practice. I will use updated techniques of the historically oppressed to comment on the continuing oppression of women in my world, the first world, a shifting landscape, certainly, but still worthy of investigation.  The goal of my project is to tell women’s stories in clothing that can be described as artwear, walking sculpture, or performance art. To do this, I will learn to digitize original embroidery designs and use my computer assisted embroidery machine to create narrative content in textiles that I will then use to create original clothing. 

 The project that I plan to create is titled WEARING MY AGE.  It is a series of up to four costumes from hand dyed, variably distressed muslin, that will function as narrative uniforms demonstrating the public, private and secret language of women at distinct stages of life through the use of original text and image.  Each uniform will be comprised of a jacket (public language), a dress (private language) and a petticoat (secret language).  Each part of the uniforms will have text embroidered on the fabric, expressing the experience of women at various ages.

 The text for the clothing will be written based on interviews with a national group of female artists and creatives, collected using email and social media, about the stages and ages of being a woman. The answers will be edited and digitized into machine embroidery.  The digital software, Tru Embroidery, for MAC, will allow me to develop images and typefaces that I will be able to import into the Baby Lock embroidery machine.


Friday, February 21, 2014

Here's the thing...

Bad weather abounds....although the sun is shining pretty fiercely.  Marcus, my wonderful helper, only has to commute across the alley.  So, 10 inches of snow only delayed things long enough to clear driveways and clear out cars.

We plugged away on catty-wampus modules today.  Crimping here, cutting away there.  They seem to get up to mischief in the night!

But today!  against all odds, we moved both halves across the room and hung them from my tin ceiling.  They match!  We measured well!  We will now let it rest until Monday.  Hopefully the little houses will get all their partying done by then;-)

We have just moved part one across  the room after 2 full days of wire adjustment

Now part 2 is joining Part 1

Marcus getting ready to move the cousins closer together.

It is too large to fit in the photograph.  Some modules still need adjusting, but HERE IT IS!  Largely finished!


Monday, February 10, 2014

We are officially AIRBORNE!

The first half of the project. sometimes thought of as the bigger half, is off the wall and hanging free in the studio.  It was so exciting to see it in mid air.  While there is still tweaking to do, probably mostly on site, it is pretty much how I imagined it could be.


Here are the exciting videos of Marcus and John moving the work off the wall and pivoting it into storage position.  

"Storage position?" you ask.  The piece will cover 16 linear feet when it is completed.  I do not have 16 linear feet of wall with sufficient height to make this piece.  So, we decided to pivot at a 90 degree angle to the pinwall so we can compose in relation to the existing panel.

 Here's the view of the hanging from the sewing area.  And then, a photo of the layout of the second half beginning.
None of this would be possible without the help of my assistants:       Dale Kennedy who has worked with me on and off for years.  He helps me figure out the logistics of putting things together.          Marcus Larson, neighbor, friend, tall, master gardener and artist .          John Mitchell, neighbor, friend, tall and kind.There is a theme here...I like to hire kind, tall men to climb tall ladders;-)
 


Friday, January 24, 2014

Composing on the wall

I'm still waiting for a new grommeting die and the final yardage.  I swept the studio.  I napped.  I read.  And then I began composing.  I decided I could not comfortably wait for all the modules to be grommeted.  I needed to get a move on and see what could be done with these houses!

So, late today, on the 8' x10 ' pinwall, 1/2 the width of the final piece, I began pinning.  The first basic idea is to form a sort of house shaped area with the "face" modules.  Not all the modules are made yet.  They will be completed by late next week.  But I decided I had enough to begin composition studies.



Then I began to play with connecting squares of color.  I had determined that a broad swath of color, like a road or a tree branch, as I had shown in the blog before, would be far to prone to humidity changes and would more than likely warp like the devil with season changes.  So, back to working within the grid to see what can be done to both settle the eye and stabilize the  piece.  I'm not liking my solutions yet, but that is why I scheduled a full month for assembly and problem solving.





Friday, January 17, 2014

Twelve hours a day

It looks something like this in my studio, twelve hours a day!

Thursday, January 16, 2014

Today's completed work...except that today is not complete


By 3:30 today, Dale had grommeted the four corners of...I don't know.  You count!  I think it is around 70 modules, give or take a few.

I decided that all of  the photos of people will be done in the twin-peaked house form  and all of the text in the iconic single peak form.  I pinned up a couple of mini-compositions....thinking about whether there will be a diagonal  swath for the eye to rest upon.  Don't know yet.  When the rest of the fabric with text comes from Spoonflower, and I make it up into modules, then I will be able to decide.

Tonight is Project Runway night.  Will I be able to watch it in the studio?  We'll see about that, as well;-)


Testing for assembly




The Habitat for Humanity project is huge!  It is, in essence, a "beaded curtain"  that will act as a permeable wall between the cubicle space and a gathering space. It will be approximately 16 feet wide by ten feel tall.  Each of the modules will link to others around it using nylon coated picture wire and crimps.  If you have been reading the blog, you know that crimps have been a problem.  I have located appropriate crimps and they should be here within the week.


Dale Kennedy and I did some testing of the assembly concept using mat board.  Mat board had about the same weight and density as the cloth modules.  Putting the modules together was fiddly, but it worked well.  The pieces have the movement I was looking for.

    The grommets and the grommet setter have arrived. In order to have a system that was less likely to injure us, I had to go with a larger grommet than I had at first intended.

  The grommet setter will help prevent extreme tendinitis.  The other option for setting grommets is a set of pliers.  Not only would that be extremely hard on the arms and hands, but it is inconsistent, leaving misshapen holes and insecure fastenings.

Dale built some placement gigs to assist in grommeting.  Many hands will likely be running the houses through their paces.  These should help "dummy-proof" things.

















Here is the first stack of houses, with grommets.
















The next step is figuring out how I want to use these fabrics.  These are made from photographs provided by Habitat for Humanity.  They are full of happy clients and volunteers.













Friday, January 10, 2014

The Pin Wall


The pinwall went in today.  It is 8 feet x 10 feet of styrofoam.  Holy Moly!  It is frighteningly huge and is only 1/2 of the project size!  Nothing pinned to it yet...but just wait!  Next week I will start.  Boy it scares me.  What if I do not like what I see?
I started 20 new modules today.  They are nearly ready for sewing.




This project is physically grueling.  Today was an aching day.  The weather changed swiftly from dry arctic cold to moist spring-like 30 degees.  The old bones objected.  But carrying on is the only option...and an Aleve.

I continue to make ergonomic decisions for the studio.  Risers under table legs for working standing up.  An anti-fatigue mat for the ironing area.


But still, the body objects today.

Saturday, January 4, 2014

Text or texture

Simple stitched text
 Text is a key part of the Habitat for Humanity project.  There are so many stories about home in the experiences of those who work for their own houses and those who assist.  I look forward to collecting these stories.  Meanwhile, I explore ways to get the text into the project.


There are a few fonts built into the Computer Assisted Embroidery Machine.  The work out to look like a simple back stitch, readable, but mainly adding texture and shine.
Printed text
It is possible to run muslin through my Epson printer to experiment with text.  I have designed and ordered a couple of yards of this from Spoonflower.  I will over dye and surface decorate.  This text is pretty bold and might work best in small amounts.

digitized and embroidered text









This sample pleases me more than it should, perhaps.  It is the first piece of digitized embroidery I have designed for scratch.  It has plenty of flaws....but it is a start.  It is too bold and needs more surface work and over-dyeing on  the fabric.  BUT  it is a start!





Meanwhile, the under-heated dye kitchen calls.  This dull, beige fabric needs to become a textured, rich brown.  I'll probably be ready to work on it just as it reaches -20 degrees outside!
Cloth that needs dye

Friday, January 3, 2014

"Hi. I'm Sue. I am a tool addict."

Dry Mount Press
I come from a family of engineers, teachers and architects. People who know me well know that the engineering genes, though poorly expressed, come through when I am in contact with a tool.

"Hi.  I'm Sue.  I am a tool addict."  It is true.


This Habitat project allows me to use so many different threads, scissors, dyes and tools!

I use the dry mount press, that I have had for over 30 years, to mount the assembled squares on the Pelltex fusible "board."

I use the computer assisted embroidery machine to decoratively assemble the fabric "blocks"  using the satin stitch and some of the lovely embroidery stitches that come with the machine.  Each module has at least one line of silver embroidery.   I am also experimenting with various ways to embroider text.
Computer assisted embroidery machine
The hardy Janome will put up with almost anything!  It has sewn through many odd things over the years it has been in my studio.  In this project it finishes the edges that the serger cannot manage.
Janome
The serger is the newest sewing machine in the studio.  It came to live with me last year, just before I fell an wrecked my shoulder.  I got it at the Annual Textile Center Garage sale!  I had it cleaned up and tuned just in time for this project.
Serger
You might notice all kinds of pieces of tape and stickers on the machines.  These are my "post-it notes."  telling me what settings I am using for the Habitat Project.  Afterall, these are multi-purpose machines and sometimes a girl just has to shorten a pair of jeans!
The best iron I have ever owned!
Every textile studio needs a good iron.  Everything, EVERYTHING, needs to be ironed.  I cannot tell you how many strips of Wonder Under, featherweight interfacing, HeatBond and just plain wrinkled cotton have passed under this iron.  Note the teflon sheet...lots of stuff melts in this process, so lots of non-stick is needed.

This radiator is my newest addition.  The dye studio is unheated!  Yes, you read right.  Un Heated.  I have relied on the movement of heat from the main studio through the archway to the dye kitchen.  I did replace the windows and doors to the studio this winter.  But, even so!  It was time to put one of these in.


My newest tool!

Thursday, November 14, 2013

Materials testing

I have been running test on various materials and modalities for the Habitat Project.
Epson print on polyester chiffon, also embroidery on chiffon, laminated to cotton
I have made the wall above the ironing board the idea space.  I have been experimenting with various modes of photo transfer, printing, embroidery.
I have run prints on various grounds: Bubblejet Set, InkAid clear and Inkaid White, Golden digital ground.  I have run a newer version of solar printing, de-colorant...and, of course, dyeing.

I learned that polyester chiffon, coated with clear Ink Aid will take a fine print from the old Epson printer.  Hooray!

To the left are some prints on muslin with and without various digital grounds.

Hanging on the wall are various chains and zipties and carabiner loops to try out for assembly.

Like I said in the last post, FUN IN THE STUDIO!

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

The BIG PROJECT

Since I last wrote here, I was awarded a grant to create 1 large pieces of textile art from 2 panels of 8' x 10'  for the new Habitat for Humanity office in St. Paul.  Habitat is such a great organization!  My family has been supporters and workers for years.

The work that I will make will act as permeable walls for a meeting area, viewable from the cubicles and the gathering space.  Parts of the piece will be fabricated in workshops with Habitat clientele.  They are encouraged to bring their own ethnic textiles which I will scan or photograph so that they can be inserted in the design.

There is so much I could do!  So much I might do.  Follow along here to see the process unfold.

At this juncture, I am planning for 4 different House-shaped modules, suspended among branches/roads/diagonals/grids, connected with chain/threads/cords/zip ties, surface designed with  paint stick/foil/dyes/stencils/relief printing/beads/bangles/photo grams/photos, with connecting text throughout!  Whew!
The modules might look something like these paper cut outs, but visually more complex than a single piece of scrapbook paper.

The new office is decorated in warmish blues and beiges.

It occurred to me that I should have a basic palette in mind.  So, I went out today and filled in my color wheel.  The basic uniting colorway could be in browns and beiges.  The top fabric is actually large sepia toned panels of a portrait by Norman Rockwell.  Cutting it to 12" squares will abstract  the images while portions of the face will still be seen.  There is some chiffon in there that will be considered for overlays, openings and printing.









Greens and blues that tend toward the warm tones with, of course, red and yellow available for pops of color.


But then, there are the unknown client textiles that will begin to arrive in December.  What if none of this works with those unknowns?

DYE!  Dye will probably be a key normalizing factor.


What next?  PLAY!  Time to seriously play with the materials toward planning the workshops and the final product!  Fun in the studio looms large;-)













Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Deconstructing Power on a disjointed day

Today was an odd day.  Beastly cold.  Spent time waiting for the electricians who never came.  Went to the little studio  to work on the Deconstructing Power pieces only to have a poor little dying mouse lurch out of somewhere and discombobulate me.  He was quivering, and panting, having a hard time righting himself.  While I do not want mice to live inside with me, I felt so bad for his misery.  With horror and sadness, I removed him.

   Then I did a little more work on this piece and moved on to the next, only to discover that I had no thread with me and that I need to be able to hang  them on the wall to see what I am doing  and I had no stapler with me.   So I moved on the the shoe pieces.  Last week I finished the assembly of the shoe rubbings.  Today I began composition of the skeletal parts of the wing tip shoes.